Russell
The waterfront is very picturesque with the original police house still standing and
a number of lovely homes stretching up the hill to the site of the flagpole that started the trouble n the first place. We climbed up there taking a short cut through a lovely little nature reserve, deafened by the cicadas as the day got hotter. A tough climb but rewarded with great views over the harbour.
As we headed back across the bay we saw a couple more of the war canoes out training for the big day and behind them a New Zealand Navy helicopter landing
ship which must have been roughly the balance of firepower when the Europeans first arrived. Now they are happily all on the same side - I think.
To the Cape
Fortunately Peter took the opportunity of a swim in the bay before we headed off, as our stop for the night was by a mangrove swamp with no golden sandy beach. Simply not good enough, we are used to one golden sandy bay at every stop and usually one or two in between.
Before leaving the Bay of Islands we decided to take the 10 minute water taxi 
from Paihia across to Russell. Once known as hell-hole of the Pacific, it was a chill-out spot for itinerant pirates, whalers and escaped convicts happy to introduce the native population to the rum and the various social diseases our valiant colonists carried with them. In fact the Treaty of Waitangi was in part an effort by the British government to restore order and protect the Maori. It is now a tranquil spot suitable for retired gentle folk – though at these house prices not many of them Maori.
from Paihia across to Russell. Once known as hell-hole of the Pacific, it was a chill-out spot for itinerant pirates, whalers and escaped convicts happy to introduce the native population to the rum and the various social diseases our valiant colonists carried with them. In fact the Treaty of Waitangi was in part an effort by the British government to restore order and protect the Maori. It is now a tranquil spot suitable for retired gentle folk – though at these house prices not many of them Maori. The waterfront is very picturesque with the original police house still standing and
a number of lovely homes stretching up the hill to the site of the flagpole that started the trouble n the first place. We climbed up there taking a short cut through a lovely little nature reserve, deafened by the cicadas as the day got hotter. A tough climb but rewarded with great views over the harbour.As we headed back across the bay we saw a couple more of the war canoes out training for the big day and behind them a New Zealand Navy helicopter landing
ship which must have been roughly the balance of firepower when the Europeans first arrived. Now they are happily all on the same side - I think. To the Cape
Reclaiming the van we headed North again, passing through Matauri Bay. This is a Maori owned location, part of the reconciliation process where land and money has been repaid enabling Maoris to start up tourist or agricultural enterprises. 
There were signs of housing plots but also a campsite, beyond which was the hilltop monument to the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior by the French not-so-Secret Service. This was an act of unbelievable arrogance by the French against a supposedly friendly country that just wasn’t too keen on the French testing their nuclear weapons in their back yard. The two agents who set the limpet mine were released into French custody and then not only freed early but actually decorated for their exploits.
There were signs of housing plots but also a campsite, beyond which was the hilltop monument to the sinking of the Rainbow Warrior by the French not-so-Secret Service. This was an act of unbelievable arrogance by the French against a supposedly friendly country that just wasn’t too keen on the French testing their nuclear weapons in their back yard. The two agents who set the limpet mine were released into French custody and then not only freed early but actually decorated for their exploits. Fortunately Peter took the opportunity of a swim in the bay before we headed off, as our stop for the night was by a mangrove swamp with no golden sandy beach. Simply not good enough, we are used to one golden sandy bay at every stop and usually one or two in between.
In which we meet a new friend ...
A lazy start saw us in Waimura stopping to get supplies for our lunch, and for the next couple of days as Cape Reinga is pretty remote. We fell into conversation with a young man from the Czech Republic trying to hitch hike to the Cape. His English was good as he was working in Chipping Norton as a carpenter and he turned out to be good company so we gave him a lift . As well as his camping gear he carried a fishing rod and we hoped to be able to share in his catch, but no luck.
The last 20-odd kilometres to Tapotupotu Bay, the nearest campsite to Cape Reinga, was in the process of being sealed so a bit tricky and we had to stop at one point as they were trying to winch a truck back out of the ravine to the side of the road. A sobering moment. A steep, winding descent brought us down to the Bay and a really lovely campsite with only water and loos but as a result not too busy. We parked with the rear window looking out over the bay – then in for a swim.
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