Cruising the Western States

We are coming to the end of our 12 day RV hire and have of course tried to pack too much in so our IT technician has had to spend a lot of time driving rather than keeping the blog up to date.

We have been to Yosemite National Park, Death Valley and Grand Canyon and innumerable small desert and mountain places in between. Currently in the mountains in Arizona heading back to LA

Until we settle down for a bit (4 days  in San Francisco this weekend may help) we'll post a few photos on Picassa, starting with some from Yosemite. If you haven't had an email invite try cutting and pasting this into your web address line

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/sredir?uname=peter.huxford14&target=ALBUM&id=5330353677218057233&authkey=Gv1sRgCIzOwaejqfac3wE&authkey=Gv1sRgCIzOwaejqfac3wE&feat=email.

Osaka and arond on a Japan Rail Pass

If you haven't noticed, we have also posted another blog for USA so you willneed to scrolldown tofind it. We are trying to keep up todate onthe USA so will be posting blogs on Japan and the USA simutaneously until we catch up. A bit post-modern I knowbut I amsure you can cope.

but back to Japan ...

For the next week we are staying with Yuki’s mother and father in a suburb on the outskirts of Osaka. Mr Sato picked us up from the local station and we were welcomed with a late night snack and a celebratory glass of sake. Yuki's parents English is limited (albeit considerably better than our Japanese) but they are very warm and welcoming. We are sleeping in the ‘tatami’ room which is a special place where the photos of grandparents are kept together with family heirlooms. We have to take off our slippers off and not put stuff directly on the floor so have to try and keep our rucksacks a bit tidy. The futons are very comfy and we dont have any trouble sleeping.

Monday 30^th   Osaka Castle

 

In the morning Yuki’s nephew, Taigah came around. He was a bit shy at first but had prepared a routine where he  spelt out our names with body positions, a bit like semaphore. He was too shy to do it for us right away but Yuki had videoed it on her camera. We’ll see if it can be included with the Picassa album.

 

After that the four of us went for a walk around the neighbourhood. Mr and Mrs Sato live in a new development which has won architectural awards. Although pretty densely packed and constructed in concrete it is very pleasant with lots of space for planting and lots of variety in the homes. There are shops, a lake and a community centre and it all backs onto a wooded hillside. It was a long fairly leisurely stroll but we managed to lose Margot at one point in the maze of streets and Mr Sato had to go out on his moped to find her.

At lunch we were joined by Yuki’s niece Judia who had been playing softball and then we all set off into Osaka to visit the castle and then meet up with Yuki’s sister and brother-in –law for dinner. It was three changes to get there but as you rarely have to wait more than five minutes for a connection it didn’t take too long and the sun was still up as we walked up to the castle. Like most of Japan’s cities it was heavily bombed and the castle is mainly a reconstruction. In fact with earthquakes, fires and war there is very little in Japan’s cities that is original – indeed some shrines and temples have been re-built more than once. However all reconstruction has been done meticulously and is no less impressive for it.

 

As the sun began to go down over the city centre, we walked back across the river to this very large plush hotel where Yuki’s sister Aki and her husband were waiting. We hadn’t realised we were going to somewhere so elegant and felt a bit scruffy but we were shown to a private dining room overlooking the city and there were no bouncers to throw us out. 

It was a lavish meal with about eight courses, though with Japanese food this isn’t quite as much as it sounds as they are delicate portions and  low on carbohydrates. Despite the language barrier it was a lovely evening and interesting as Yukis sister and brother-in-law both work in the care sector and we compared practices though poor Yuki could barely eat as she was so busy translating. We can’t imagine the cost of the meal but it was great experience. 

Tuesday 31^st Day 113 Nara

 

Nara is not too far to the south-west of Osaka and the train ride out was fairly quick and easy, not least because Yuki was free and spent the day with us. It is one of the ancient capitals of Japan and so is blessed with a wealth of historic buildings. It was also somewhat less of a target in the war.

 Our morning was therefore spent in what is known as the preserved district, with traditional houses and streets retained for posterity. The streets are narrower than ever and are shared by cars, pedestrians and bikes (motorized or not) with an amazing degree of mutual acceptance. The ingenuity with which people park their cars is also impressive. Mainly we just wandered along looking at the houses and shops, and of course, the people. We did, however go into one house over a shop retained as a museum. Although very simple the layout and detailing were fascinating as everything has to be fitted into a very limited space. Peter has begun to fantasise about a Japanese style extension or annexe to No 10 Derwent Road – well, he’s got to do something with his time when he gets home. 

For lunch we found a small corner cafe offering ‘Okonomyaki’ a sort of hybrid pizza and omelette with interesting toppings. Margot had oyster and Peter chicken and both were hot and nourishing which was just what was needed on what was still a fairly chilly day.

 

From there we went up to the park where all the shrines and temples are – and the infamous deer that roam the streets living off offerings from the visitors. They of course can get a bit pushy but not dangerous and some ladies sell a special biscuit that is not too bad  for them. Quite a change from Australia where feeding the wildlife is considered very anti-social.

 

The park is huge and everywhere are shrines and temples and even on a weekday there were hundreds of visitors keen to catch the first blossoming of the cherry trees. Waiting for a clear photo opportunity requires patience but like the traffic its all surprisingly good natured. 

The main feature is the Todaiji Temple, built in 727 and the largest wooden structure in the world - even though it was destroyed in the 18^th century and re-built at only 2/3 its original size. It houses a seated Bhudda who nearly reaches the roof and is accompanied by two fearsome looking guardians. At the foot of one of the pillars there is a hole that children and other small people can crawl through, though legend has it if you have told a lie you will get stuck. Certainly the little girl that we watched crawl through looked very relieved as she emerged so perhaps she had told a little porky at some time or other.

 

We climbed to the top of the park where it goes into the hill, which is itself a god in the shinto religion, and then circled around back to the town where we found  a group on a pilgrimage visiting one of the shrines. We weren’t that impressed as they looked as if they were doing it on a coach rather than on foot.

 

We bought some sweets from one of these beautiful shops that wrap things so elegantly and took them home for tea where we found Aki  and the kids and Mrs Sato had prepared a delicious meal of  sea-food curry. After supper we did some e-mailing on the machine in the dining room, which is the centre of family life, while Mr Sato found CNN for us on the TV. With limited access to the internet we are feeling out of touch again and it was nice to know that North Korea had postponed the launch of its rocket for the time being.

 

 Wednesday 1^st  April 

 

April 1^st passed relatively quietly although we introduced them to ‘pinch, punch, first of the month’ and the idea of April Fools. There was a rather unimaginative one about a computer virus but later the York Cycle Campaign sent on a BBC press release about Jeremy Clarkson converting to pedal power. Take a look if it is still up  

http://www.bbc.co.uk.tscc.org.uk/pressoffice/stories/2009/1_april/30/topgear.shtml

With no outings planned Peter went for a run up the hills behind the houses which gave a great view out over the city and he managed to get back without getting lost. Being in a residential suburb there is nothing in English and no-one to ask the way even if we could explain where we were living. We do have a borrowed phone but it too only speaks Japanese so, apart from taking calls or dialling the two numbers Yuki fed in for us, its workings are a mystery.

 

Thursday 2nd April Kyoto   

 

Today we had decided to go to Kyoto with Yuki and as Mr and Mrs Sato decided to join us so we all piled in Mr Sato’s car. Although both Osaka and Kyoto are major cities, the land in between is all fully built up and the existing roads are remarkably narrow. A freeway is being built but like most such roads has to be built on stilts above the existing network. It has walls to contain the noise so it’s a bit like driving in a tunnel. 

Nevertheless we got there pretty quick and as we were driving through the city Mrs Sato suddenly remembered a small museum she had done some work with. It was above a shop and workshop making and selling wedding kimonos and related accessories and consisted mainly of a model of one wing of an imperial palace with models about 8” tall dressed in the most immaculate costumes acting out various scenes of courtly life. The workmanship was incredible and we will make an album of  a selection of photos.

 

They also offered  visitors the chance to try on a costume  and soon Margot was fully regaled. Peter was perhaps less convincing in his outfit but drama ensued when he discovered her sitting in intimate proximity to another courtier – and this so close to their 30^th anniversary. You probably had to be there, but it certainly caused some amusement at the time.

 

Changing back into more suitable attire we left Mr and Mrs Sato and headed to Konichi-in the grounds at the foot of Diamon-ji which we intended to climb for a picnic lunch. We took the time to visit the gardens of the Tea house of 8 windows, designed and built by a shogun with beautiful wood construction and  some exquisite wall scrolls which unfortunately we were not able to photograph. The gardens were equally fascinating with small shrines and zen gardens.

 

Further up the hill the Philosophers Road was now overhung with cherry blossom as it follows a stream and a was magnet for photographers. We followed it for a while thereby missing the main route up the mountain so Yuki led us up a path that had clearly not seen human feet for some years. We did eventually locate the main path somewhere near the top and followed it to the lookout spot with a fantastic panorama across the city. Refreshed with green tea, fish cakes and rice balls we made our way down again to meet the parents.

 

Back at ground level we visited the Ginkaku-ji or Silver Temple which was being thoroughly renovated - interesting in itself to see the traditional carpenters skills still being carried on. We also wandered round the  beautiful gardens which included amazing sand sculptures. By then it was closing time but we managed to find a  little tea shop for tea and cakes (green tea and bean paste cakes, that is). There are so many little shops and stalls it is a wonder how any of them make a living but they seem to get by.

 

It was now getting late so we headed into the Gion district in the centre of  the city, an area famed for its traditional nightlife and specifically geishas. 

The districts is split by a stream and a narrow avenue with cherry blossoms now illuminated by street lights and thronged with visitors. It was made even livelier by a promotion of free saki by a local firm, handed out by lovely young ladies in kimonos. After getting our free drink we

 wandered through the narrow dimly lit streets as Yuki explained what went on inside the close doors. We finally sat down to eat at an Italian restaurant though it somehow managed to retain a Japanese flavour. As always  the Sato family refused to allow us to pay so we are encouraging them to come to England so we can at least attempt to return some of their hospitality. In fact so may people have been so kind and generous throughout our trip we have extended such invitations many, many times. It would be really nice to be able to show them all around Yorkshire but perhaps easier if they don't all arrive on the same day.

 

Friday 3^rd April  Kyoto with Kimiyo

 

The following day we headed back to Kyoto but this time on the train, with detailed instructions from Yuki. Miraculously we met Kimiyo as planned at the huge new station development but after a quick look around we headed of  by bus (another new experience!) to see the Kinkaku-ji or Golden Temple. Although very crowded you could quite understand why as it is a very beautiful building set in lovely gardens . We then had a light lunch in a little coffee shop as we walked through to the Ritsumeiken University Peace Museum. This was very interesting ranging over a number of recent conflict zones and we ended up spending quite a time here.

 

We had intended to go on to visit the famous Royan-ji zen garden but by now it was close to closing time so we walked on to a shrine with a park that was still open, In fact it was just winding up for an evening of hanami picnics with dozens of stalls and booths offering food and drink. We had tea ata special Sakura tea shop which sold only tea made from cherry blossom. Quite salty but very tasty especially as it had real cherry blossom in it. (don’t try this at home, kids, it’s a special edible variety).

 We then got the bus back into town as we were to meet a group of summer school alumni for dinner. Yuki has selected a rather chic restaurant set up in a traditional house miraculously surviving in the heart of the business district. On our way  we browsed a bookshop having a summer sale and bought a copy of “ Letters from Iwo Jima" which we will read before watching the film – one of the selection that Matt sent us off with. Nevertheless we were early at the restaurant and they let us wander around the building and into the zen garden they had recreated at the back. 

The meal was fun as some where old friends but most had been on separate summer schools, so we all introduced ourselves and explained what we did now and how the summer schools had steered our work subsequently. Peter was pleased to meet one guest who worked in the same field as him and had even been to Hackney on a fact-finding visit. The food was as good as the surroundings and there was a lot of sharing and tasting of each others dishes including still more delicacies that we hadn’t tried before.

 Finally back on the train with a couple of changes so we went a bit mad and got a taxi up the hill to Yuki’s parents house for the last night.

 In the morning, after a final farewell and a look at the cherry trees at the end of the street we piled in  - with all our luggage- to Yuki’s 600cc car and headed for Hiro’s house in the Rokko mountains

Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas

Friday

The fear and loathing? Well, that was mainly the driving our RV out of town on the freeway during Friday evening rush-hour, with everyone heading for the mountains or across the border, but we made it and found  KOA (Kamp of Amerika?) site just north of Barstow . No, we never heard of it before either, but may have to go back there tomorrow to pick up a Rough Guide or something similar. The last few weeks before we left the UK were spent planning Australia. For New Zealand and Japan we relied on Margot’s prior knowledge and contacts. Somehow we never got round to planning the USA and Canada except that we hired this RV to do the south-west and would drop by and see Adrian in Kentucky and Ed in Ann Arbor, ending up in Nova Scotia before flying out.

We have a list of ‘must-sees’ from various friends and a KOA map with barely legible maps of each state but no indication of which ‘must-see’ is in which state, or which direction we should take tomorrow. We are on the Interstate to Las Vegas but Vegas is not high on our list, so its coin tossing time, left to Nevada or right to Arizona.

We had eaten across the road the night before in LA in a food mall and tried to stay up late to get back into a routine and the day started well with a lazy morning as we didn’t have to check out until 12. Our shuttle to the RV rental was at 1245 and we shared the first leg with a couple of young guys from Tasmania. They turned out to be a ‘super-cross’ team. Peter nearly embarrassed himself thinking super cross was a mountain bike sport, but not really so dumb as the rider had said they had their bikes in their luggage. Turned out they built their own machines and had just brought some particular magic components  from OZ and would cobble together the rest from borrowed or off-the-shelf bits. We stopped at another hotel and picked up an older couple who overhearing our conversation, recognised the name of the rider and turned out to have a son in the same sport – and was intending to go to the Isle of  Wight to look up some ancestors graves – maybe in the same graveyard the Huxfords lie. Small world double helpings.

 The super-cross rider was filming the racing and the trip (they had popped over to China on the way as they get their components manufactured there), so it could be made into a film. Peter told him about Matt’s film abut the World Stone-Skimming Finals in Scotland and the forthcoming Tron-Bon-Jovi banger run and he was very impressed. Peter was angling for a film-editing contract in Australia for Matt (with him as assistant of course) but nothing definite yet. We are in Hollywood after all.

 Once out of LA we pulled over for a bite- it was 7pm and we seemed to have missed lunch. As on the night before it was huge portions of heavy food. A real shock after Japan and we are going to have to watch our weights. Off to the supermarket tomorrow to look for sushi.

 The Mojave Desert

 Although the smallest on the menu our RV is still pretty big. In OZ and NZ we had to make the bed up each night but this baby has a permanent double bed, permanent dining table with bench seats and an over the cab double bed, not  to mention a proper cooker, fridge, mocrowave, toilet and shower. Not very energy efficient unfortunately but certainly comfortable. We arrived late at the campsite and had to go on the overflow  section but as it is pitch dark we may wake up to find we are someone’s front lawn.

 Saturday

 In the morning light it became clear that the only reason to be on this site was to get out of LA ASAP on a Friday night. The only difference from us was that everybody else had bought their  trail  bikes and we were woken by groups of bikers heading off into the desert. We headed back into Barstow to get a Rough Guide and some groceries. We found a supermarket and gas station but whenPeter asked abut a bookshop he got one of those “You’re not from round these parts” looks with which we are becoming increasingly familiar.

The next major conurbation was Bakersfield but that was way back to the West so we headed North on 395 across the desert with a view to eventually crossing the Sierra Nevada into Yosemite. If you would be hard pressed to think of a reason for living in Barstow then its even harder to imagine why anyone would want to  be out in the desert (except to make it difficult for the police to find you) but every now and then we would come across a community of  trailer homes. The main industry seems to be car wrecking but if you look at the map you can see the huge China Lake Navy Weapons Range and of course Barstow is next to the US Marine training grounds so maybe there are jobs as extras in street warfare training exercises.

 A few miles north, at Pearsonsville (consisting solely of Pearson car wrecking emporium, a Shell gas station and a family diner plus assorted trailers) we bought a phone card and called the National Parks to discover that the Sierra Nevada roads were all still closed through snow so we did a U-turn and headed back to China Lake, then west towards Bakersfield, aiming to stop at another KOA at Lake Isabella.

Although skirting south of the Sierra, 178 climbs up and over a mountain pass and at last some vegetation. The camp site was well short of the Lake but had all the facilities including free WI-FI. Deciding that we needed to rest and plan our trip we booked in for 2 nights.

 Sunday

 The area around the site was in fact the southern tip of the Sequoia National Park and had a certain stark beauty, but when we asked the site super (long blond hair, moustache and washed out blue eyes that had stared too long at the desert sun) about local walking trails we got that look again. The favoured activity of guests and staff alike seemed to be sitting in the bar drinking cold beer and watching baseball on TV, but as everyone looked like an extra from a Cohn brothers movie we drank our own beer alone alongside the RV. There was one gate out of the coyote fence marked ‘pet walk’ so as the evening sun cooled down we went for a stroll watching not only for dog poo but also tarantulas, rattlesnakes and cougars as promised by the Park leaflet. It seems that after 100 yards the pets couldn’t wait to get back in front of the TV as the path tailed off in some long grass between trees just big enough for a cougar to hide behind.

 The evening was well spent in the RV catching up with emails and the blog, and Peter had the brainwave of googling Borders to find they had a branch in Bakersfield which by now was a mere 44 miles away and only a slight detour from our planned route north to Yosemite

 Monday

 Of course, Bakersfield not only has a Borders but was the eponymous location of  “Bakersfield PD” one of Peter’s favourite TV cop shows of the 90s(?). In the show Bakersfield seemed to be a place where there was no crime and not much else and maybe it was the lack of violence that meant it didn’t get beyond the first series. However, it was a really good series and Peter misses it so if you ever come across a DVD in a thrift shop please grab it for him.

 

The road into Bakersfield was the first really impressive bit of scenery we had come across (the desert was a bit bleak for our taste) with the Kern River tumbling down a narrow gorge with huge boulders and towering cliffs. Government budget cuts seem to have hit the road safety industry as there was a distinct lack of barriers on the corners, so Peter had to concentrate on the road rather than watching the scenery. He’ll have to look at the photos later.

Eventually we found Borders in a shopping mall and got a copy of Lonely Planet ‘USA’ and a copy of  Barack Obama’s “The Audacity of Hope”. Since we missed the inauguration and most of what has happened since it seemed a good idea to find out what had been promised before reality and the recession stepped in. (on the radio today he was being cheered by the CIA and asking for deeper cuts in government expenditure). The cashier claimed  to love London more than anywhere else in the world, having been there twice. She had just moved out from San Francisco where it was foggy every day “just like London”. Seems like she’d been very unlucky or not been there since Dickens died.

 Interstate 99 north out of Bakersfield runs straight and true through the flattest biggest plain we have ever seen all devoted to agribusiness, and with the sunshine (today was in the high 70s) and cheap Mexican labour it becomes clearer how America can feed itself and so much of the rest of the world. The endless blue sky was only broken by a layer of cloud over the eastern horizon, clouds with pointy tops which we eventually realized were the snow covered peaks of the Sierra some 40 miles away. Once through Fresno we swung right and headed towards Yosemite with the landscape getting more mountainous and green until we at last reached Mariposa, the first town that seemed to be a real town and not just a series of shopping malls in the desert (and that includes LA).

 So, sorry to our American friends if we seem to be down on the US. Maybe watching “No Country for Old Men” before driving through the desert wasn’t such a good idea. Tomorrow we will be up in the mountains and we can begin to lean back and enjoy ourselves.

Leaving Tokyo

Tokyo Satuday 29th March

Leaving Keiko and Ken we headed back to the YMCA where the DEAR conference had invited us (well, Margot) to make a guest appearance at the evening meal. it seems Margot is a star act  in Human Rights and Citizenship circles (check out the DEAR website for details) here in Japan. The food was great and we had some interesting chats with various delegates but payback time came when we had to address the assembled throng. Yes, "we" as Peter too had to justify his existence. His simple recipe of working as a volunteer for 30 years and marrying the boss went down well and everyone was really chuffed that we had come to Japan to celebrate our anniversary.

After the meal the DEAR staff took us off for a meal, as always an amazing selection of exotic dishes including as a special treat,  fishes testicles. Valiantly we swallowed them - Peter even chewed and claims they were quite tasty, though up to that point he was not aware that fishes had them. (Some don't of course, as we just ate them).

Then back to the R&B for a good nights rest.

Sunday 30th March

Our last day in Tokyo and we headed for the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, the only part pento the public as the Emperor still lives there. Its an impressive structure across from the Central Business District but divided by a 6-lane highway that at weekends is closed except to cycle traffic. This is great but 6-lanes does seem a bit excessive particularly as joggers still have to share the crowdwd pavement with other pedestrians. We are sure the cyclists would not begrudge them a lane or two.

The three 0ld defesive walsl of the palace are enormously thick and surrounded with a wide moat but inside the gardens are wonderful. Unlike Ueno which was still looking a bit bleak, the gardens here were beatifully manicured and beginning to blossom, and not just with cherry blossom. The only anomaly is a rather tacky 1950s concert hall that seemed rather out of place. As with allthe temples and shrines we have seen thiswas wellattended by Japanese visitors partly no doubt becasue of a shortage of local parks. As well as tourists there are always lots just having a picnic or getting away from the traffic.

Leaving the Gardens we followed the cycle way round to the main gate and bridge into the palace, a favourite photo-opportunity, and then on to Hidaya Park where we watche a wedding reception, thistimein wester-style dress.

It was well past lunch-time so we wandered on in to town and found a restaurant under the railway viaduct and gave our stomaches a break with a filled croissant and a fishburger. We still had sometime before meeting Yukifor thetrainto Osaka so we nipped back up the TMG tower (we are getting pretty good with the subway now- the day we leave) to see if Mount Fuji was visible. It was pretty hazy but, with the help of the display boards, Peter reckoned he could just make the outline out on the horizon. Margot was stillsmarting from the Bar harbour Whale Watching Incident of 1995 andrefused to admit it. Time will tell.

After meeting Yuki and collecting our bags we went to the Shinkasen station and got on our bullet train to Osaka. The line gives a great view of Mount Fuji but of course by now it was dark and , to date, the Japanese government has not got around to illumninating it with neon.

Album from Tokyo

I dont think this is the correct wayof doing this but if you copy and paste this into your web browser you should get to see our first photo album from Japan.

http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/peter.huxford14/TokyoMarch2009?authkey=Gv1sRgCM6T7IXOvpuT6QE&feat=email#

If you do try it and it works (or not, for that matter) please let us know by using the comment feature - any news from you always welcome at the same time.

love from the USofA

Peter and Margot

More photos

The first blog fromJapan is belowbut I willnowtry and master the technology of adding photos - so bear with me.

First Week in Japan

Japan 1 - Tokyo

 Hard to believe we are now in the USA.  So much seen and done during our time in Japan that our brains are overloaded but internet access so difficult couldn't get anything posted. However, all that is about to change as we are in a hotel with free wifi and an extra 24 hours to fill , courtesy of the international date line.

We flew out on the 16th from Tokyo on an overnight flight and were surprised to arrive in LA on the 16th having booked a hotel on the 17th and our campervan on the 18th.  Having checked the date with a nice lady at Travellers Aid, she booked us into the Hacienda Hotel near the airport and we phoned the rental company to see if they could bring the pick-up date forward. They can let us have it in the afternoon and a bonus is that will pick us up from the hotel. This is particularly re-assuring as our usual process of public transport and walking doesnt seem to compute too well here. Quite a change from Japan. . .

So where were we? Oh yes, arriving in Japan

We watched three films on the flight over  from Auckland, but Peter has been struggling for days to remember the first two – the Outsider and the Changeling as it happens, both very good. The third was Whale Rider based on a story from same author as one of the books he read in New Zealand. It was interesting to see it again after having spent some time there.

 First job on arriving at Narita airport was to collect our Japan Rail Passes. These have proved to be a major success as Japan Rail not only runs the high-speed Shinkasen bullet trains but also a fabulous network of local trains which you can hop on and off  like the London Underground. However Tokyo has a separate subway system so we bought SUICA top-up cards for that at the same time before heading in to town.

 Our next task was to find the Tokyo Backpackers hostel. This involved the rail link into Tokyo and a couple of stops on the subway.  Everywhere is a mass of posters, billboards and flashing signs but fortunately most of the key information is repeated somewhere in English, and after a day or two we found we became adept at zeroing in on the English text buried deep in the Japanese.  We were grateful on that first trip however for the help of a lady whose English was marginally better than our Japanese and guided us through 9 levels of interchange in Tokyo Central.

 Every barrier, although automatic, is staffed by one or two uniformed officials. They rarely speak English but will sort you out if your ticket gets stuck in the machine or your top-up card runs out of money.

Everything here is so busy and crowded they employ an army of people in uniform to keep things moving along whether it's in car parks, rail platforms, road-works or zebra crossings. Sometimes it seems a bit extravagant - like the funeral parlour car park we saw which had eight uniformed attendants, one for every three cars, all standing there to attention doing nothing presumably while the service was taking place - but they certainly do manage to keep the trains running on time.

 The train network is just incredible. Trains are frequent and punctual and travelling around the city is an art form in three dimensions as you change from line to line and even upgrade to a super rapid train which leapfrogs several stations and then of course the Shinkansen which, with the Rail Pass, has made it possible to do several day trips across the country.

And so to the Tokyo Backpackers. The hostel was distinctly aimed at youthful backpackers more so than the 'Youth' Hostels in New Zealand and we were clearly the only guests over 30. In the evening sounds of drunken karaoke could be heard arising from the lounge, but it was comfy enough and convenient and fine for a couple of days.

 

Tuesday 24^TH Day 106 Ueno Park, Tokyo

 Our first morning, after a bit of a lie-in, we decided to head for Ueno Park. After a couple of changes and a short walk we found the park to discover that the cherry blossom season was under way. 

Although the trees were barely coming into bloom the main avenue had already been organised for the ‘harami’ picnics. Either side of the central promenade, underneath the cherry blossom cherry trees, a series of blue tarpaulins were laid on the ground and, although it was still quite cold, people were already sitting down and unwrapping their food and drink. We came across this scene in every park and shrine - all of which have  dozens of  cherry trees - that we visited over the next couple of weeks. Spaces are reserved well in advance by office parties, groups of schoolfriends and families. Don't however look for scenes of quiet meditation or Zen-like simplicity. Alcohol flows freely from the fairly early in the day and cherry blossom time seems to be one big party. Also the parks surrounding shrines and temples are filled with stalls selling all kinds of food and gifts, predominantly pink and fluffy in sharp contrast to the stark simplicity of the calligraphy and traditional artwork..

 

You also notice that this is very much a Japanese occasion. While tourists are entirely welcome, it is clearly not put on for their benefit. Cherry blossom time is a major event everywhere we have been.

 

As well as shrines and temples Ueno Park has a zoo and a boating lake and, at the northern end, the Tokyo National Museum. By the time we reached there, including stopping to admire an amazing juggler called Laby and going into view the Horyuji Treasures Museum, it was well into the afternoon and we were getting hungry so we went into the cafeteria for some late lunch . Although less formal than the restaurant this was still quite an elegant place with a proper Japanese menu. Selecting from these is made possible by the use of coloured photographs or plastic imitations of what is on offer but this only takes you so far. It doesn't tell you what's actually in the dish or, more importantly, how to eat it. Margot's in particular mainly consisted of noodles in miso soup, not the easiest thing for a pair of chopsticks and we were relieved to see at the next table a couple of ladies in full kimonos and we waited for them to begin to eat so we could see how it was done. To our dismay, both picked up a knife and fork and set to work, so no help at all. 

Fortunately, slurping is allowed, indeed encouraged, so we managed to get it down without embarrassing ourselves too muc. We have to say that now, after two weeks, we are getting pretty adept and have eaten a vast range of dishes from the posh restaurants to wayside caffs without causing the locals too much amusement.

 

As we finished up they were rather surprised to hear an instrumental version of Old Lang Syne. Apparently this is in widespread use to indicate to customers that the restaurant or museum is about to close. It seemed slightly bizarre  but  sort of makes sense. It is a bit like the widespread use, or abuse, of the English (and increasingly French in the more upmarket stores) language as it is used more to give a  mood music aura of cool rather than any strict meaning. This can lead to some gems and makes reading t-shirts and shopping bags a part of the fun.

 

 

As we walked back down the avenue Ueno Park was beginning to liven up as the lanterns came on and the students and ‘salary men’ arrived from their colleges and offices. Apparently guarding the company's tarpaulin is the most important responsibility of the most junior employee and can make or break a career. Several times we would see a young man in his business suit sitting alone in the park in the middle of the afternoon waiting for his colleagues to arrive at 5pm.

 

Leaving the park we made our way back to the station through garish pachinko slot machines, and restaurants and bars catering to businessmen delaying their journey home. We were told working late and then hanging around town drinking sake, playing the slots and going with colleagues to karaoke clubs is part of the ‘salary man’ way of life as evidenced by the number of men in suits catching up on their sleep on the subway the following day.

 Finding our way back to the hostel we picked up some snacks from a bakery and convenience store and ate in our room and early to bed

  

Wednesday 25^th Day 107  

Next morning we had breakfast in the room and packed as checkout was 10 a.m.. However, we were able to leave our luggage in reception and spend some time in the internet cafe as well as popping round to find an ATM at the local Post Office. Later in the morning Eno arrived and took us to our new hotel - the ‘Day Nice’ where we left our luggage as it was too early to check in. En route we discovered the importance of knowing which exit to use from the subway as the trains and platforms are incredibly long with exits at either end and on either side of the street. If you choose the wrong end there is a long walk back but on the other hand there is usually only an elevator or lift and one exit. Sometimes difficult choices have to be made.  However after three months on the road both Margot and Peter are pretty good at getting all 30 kg each of their luggage up and down stairs.

 

We met Keiko back at the subway and went for lunch at a nearby shopping complex food hall.  This time a real Japanese meal with a variety of dishes - food, but not as we know it. The main difficulty for Margot is a degree of unfamiliarity here with the concept of being a vegetarian. Sometimes restaurants interpret vegetarian as meaning not very much meat, or just chicken, or  even 'anything but beef' so everything has to be scrutinised and on occasion handed over to Peter to finish. Apart from that we have turned nothing away and eaten a multitude of things that we did not recognize or had ever eaten before. Having said this the food here has been fantastic whether in restaurants or in private homes and within a day or two we were actually chewing and enjoying everything rather than just closing our eyes and swallowing.  Most important, our stomachs seem perfectly at ease with this new diet.

 

By now it was check-in time so we ambled back to the hotel, popping out later for something to take up for supper. This time however, no convenience store but back to the shopping mall and an enormous supermarket with every conceivable dish on display. Making a choice was a night’s entertainment in itself  with no English labels to speak of and so much to choose from.

 

Thursday 26^th  Day 108 Asakusa

 

The real treat of our new hotel must have been the toilet. It had one of those systems that not only warm the seat but double as a bidet as well. Made slightly wary by the instructions that offered you the choice of  ‘jet’ or ‘splay’ we soon mastered the controls which end with a warm breeze to dry you off. All it needed was Auld Lang Syne  to let you know you could pull your pants up. Peter wants one at home but not sure we can fit one in our luggage.

 

Refreshed and cleansed we set off for the subway again, this time to Asakusa, the location of perhaps the most famous temple and pagoda in Tokyo. As you approach the shrine through the Gate of Kaminari-mon  or ‘Thunder Gate’ hung with a massive red lantern, you enter an avenue leading up to the temple lined with little stalls full of just about everything you could ever want - or not want for that matter. The Senso-ji Temple itself, built in 628AD,  is magnificent and as elsewhere the visitors and worshippers mingle happily.

 The pagoda is just nearby, again very impressive but what really makes it interesting is just wandering around in the crowds. We are never too happy taking photos of people but here the crowds are so dense, and nearly everyone is snapping away,  so people inevitably walk into shot and we see them as fair game. No doubt we feature in lots of other visitors photo albums too. 

With our stomachs crying out for a bit of respite we settled for a sandwich lunch before heading to the Sumida River for a boat trip to Odaiba, a brand new island reclaimed from Tokyo Bay and home to mainly leisure and entertainment complexes. Opposite the riverboat terminal is the Asahi Beer Company Headquarters and the tower block is meant to look like a glass of beer. No-one seems to know what the golden vegetable on the adjoining roof is meant to be, or why.

 Fortunately as it turned out, the direct boat was full and we ended up having to change boats in downtown Tokyo. The first boat was a lovely old ferry with brass fittings and leather seats. The journey down river took about 50 minutes  passing increasingly modern and tall buildings as we went. These contrasted somewhat with the blue tarpaulin shelters of the increasing number of homeless suffering from Japans economic problems. As with most things here the shelters are nevertheless well constructed and neatly maintained. 

Approaching the city centre we changed to a more modern boat which headed across the bay to the island past the Rainbow Bridge, a long curved suspension bridge carrying both vehicles and a monorail. Looking back over the stern we could see the sun setting over the city centre and Tokyo Tower. Landing at the ferry terminal next to a scale model of  the Statue of Liberty we

 meandered through the huge entertainment complex which seemed to cater for every leisure activity and then up to the monorail – a computerised driverless system that enable you to sit up front and watch the view. 

This starts off with a succession of entertainment and sporting complexes which gradually die out leaving a succession of perfectly formed stations in the middle of nowhere, waiting for the reclaimed land to be developed. Whether or not this will be delayed by the recession, the driverless trains will no doubt continue to stop there regardless. 

There being no conductors we rode up to the end of the line and back just for the hell of it and by the time we got back to our starting point it was getting dark so we carried on over the Rainbow Bridge to downtown Tokyo where we admire the lights, mingled with the crowds among the second hand book stalls and bought some snacks to take back to the hotel.

 

Friday 27^th   Day 109 Rippongi

Nice day (though cold still) so we headed for Tokyo Metropolitan Government building –  rather disconcertingly known as  the twin towers  - and up to the 45^th floor  for a  free 360 degree look around the city and beyond. On a clear day Mount Fuji is visible but today was not one of those days though there was a display which clearly showed where Mount Fuji should be and Peter is 100% certain he could see a Mount Fuji shaped outline through the haze. Nevertheless some stunning views across the cityscape. Our guide book advised us to sneak into the staff canteen a few floors below but everything was in Japanese and no photos or plastic replicas so we chickened out and went to a  convenience store and got a picnic instead. 

We took this to a park in Rippongi which was unfortunately still in winter mode and a bit bare, but anyway we had to get back to meet Yuki and Eno and relocate to the R&B hotel. We all went out for a meal in one of these places businessmen go after work to eat and drink. You get a semi-private table, like a booth, and a succession of strange but interesting and very tasty dishes and a chance to watch the comings and goings. Beginning to acquire a taste for Japanese food and improving our chopstick skills. Getting back to the hotel about 9 we decided to watch one of the DVDs  Matt had loaded onto our external hard disk. These were supposed to fill the long leisure hours at or disposal but so far Peter has watched one and this was Margot’s first. We selected “Thank you for Smoking” which was a good choice – highly recommended. 

Sat 28^th Day 110 Ueno again

 Next day we decided to re-visit Ueno Park, in particular a little museum focussing on daily life in the neighbourhood in the recent past.. It turned out to be a little gem, along the lines of the Castle Museum in York, with rooms from various types of building and different periods. One particular ‘semi-detached’ house was so small and with such thin walls you wondered how the two families both living and working there) co-existed amicably. There is in fact a phrase describing the necessary blend of laissez-faire and consideration for your neighbour which even today seems to make Tokyo work. People just seem to accept that they live in a very overcrowded city and they are bound to get in each others way but they just have to rub along as best they can and not get up-tight. Its one of the things we really like about the place and could see a lot more of (i.e. less road rage) at home.

 The museum also had a collection of traditional wooden childrens toys and puzzles that you were allowed to play with and we tried the lucky dip which told our fortunes, good for Peter but less so for Margot. There was  group of kids in a workshop being shown how to make traditional toys, and as we left one of the volunteer curators told us he had been to York and very much liked the Castle Museum and we were presented with little keepsakes to take home.

After giving our stomaches a bit of a rest by having sandwiches at the Café Renoir, and paying for the privilegeWe strolled on through the park but today was warmer and the blossoms were blossoming and the hamami picnicers were out in force. 

We left them to it and carried on north of the Park to a big cemetery full of  Buddhist memorial stones. We looped back by way of an ‘artists’ districts with some lovely traditional homes and shops.

 

At 3pm we were due to be back near the hotel to meet Keiko and her husband who were taking us top tea. We met ‘Ken’ and Keiko at the subway and set off agin. Although we are now getting the hand of reading the signs and getting about, we still have no idea how it all hangs together so when with friends we just follow blindly. We surfaced near a promenade alongside a canal lined with cherry blossom and , you guessed, picnicers. By this time of day the saki was flowing freely but there was one group who did a very professional 7-part harmony to the deilight of the neighbouring families, and us too.

 

Tea was booked at this enormous hotel – the Four Seasons – set in absolutely beautiful gardens that were the setting for various wedding parties, some western some traditionally Japanese. There was a couple on a  bridge as we wandered through with both bride and groom so exquisite we were inclined to think it was a photo-shoot for a magazine rather than an actual marriage. The tea saloon was equally splendid and Pete felt a little on the scruffy side as his wardrobe was more geared to tramping in New Zealand. We were served greentea with Japanese sweet delicacies

Lost in Transportation

Amazing as it may seem Japan is motverygoodatwirelessorUSBssodoingtheblogisnoitnotpossibleatthemoment.Lotstotellhoweversokeepaneyeothisspace.ItalsohasstrangekeyboardsthatdontdowhatyouwantthemtobyefornowPeter