If you haven't noticed, we have also posted another blog for USA so you willneed to scrolldown tofind it. We are trying to keep up todate onthe USA so will be posting blogs on Japan and the USA simutaneously until we catch up. A bit post-modern I knowbut I amsure you can cope.
but back to Japan ...
For the next week we are staying with Yuki’s mother and father in a suburb on the outskirts of Osaka. Mr Sato picked us up from the local station and we were welcomed with a late night snack and a celebratory glass of sake. Yuki's parents English is limited (albeit considerably better than our Japanese) but they are very warm and welcoming. We are sleeping in the ‘tatami’ room which is a special place where the photos of grandparents are kept together with family heirlooms. We have to take off our slippers off and not put stuff directly on the floor so have to try and keep our rucksacks a bit tidy. The futons are very comfy and we dont have any trouble sleeping.
Monday 30th Osaka Castle
In the morning Yuki’s nephew, Taigah came around. He was a bit shy at first but had prepared a routine where he spelt out our names with body positions, a bit like semaphore. He was too shy to do it for us right away but Yuki had videoed it on her camera. We’ll see if it can be included with the Picassa album.
After that the four of us went for a walk around the neighbourhood. Mr and Mrs Sato live in a new development which has won architectural awards. Although pretty densely packed and constructed in concrete it is very pleasant with lots of space for planting and lots of variety in the homes. There are shops, a lake and a community centre and it all backs onto a wooded hillside. It was a long fairly leisurely stroll but we managed to lose Margot at one point in the maze of streets and Mr Sato had to go out on his moped to find her.
At lunch we were joined by Yuki’s niece Judia who had been playing softball and then we all set off into Osaka to visit the castle and then meet up with Yuki’s sister and brother-in –law for dinner. It was three changes to get there but as you rarely have to wait more than five minutes for a connection it didn’t take too long and the sun was still up as we walked up to the castle. Like most of Japan’s cities it was heavily bombed and the castle is mainly a reconstruction. In fact with earthquakes, fires and war there is very little in Japan’s cities that is original – indeed some shrines and temples have been re-built more than once. However all reconstruction has been done meticulously and is no less impressive for it.
As the sun began to go down over the city centre, we walked back across the river to this very large plush hotel where Yuki’s sister Aki and her husband were waiting. We hadn’t realised we were going to somewhere so elegant and felt a bit scruffy but we were shown to a private dining room overlooking the city and there were no bouncers to throw us out.
It was a lavish meal with about eight courses, though with Japanese food this isn’t quite as much as it sounds as they are delicate portions and low on carbohydrates. Despite the language barrier it was a lovely evening and interesting as Yukis sister and brother-in-law both work in the care sector and we compared practices though poor Yuki could barely eat as she was so busy translating. We can’t imagine the cost of the meal but it was great experience.
Tuesday 31st Day 113 Nara
Nara is not too far to the south-west of Osaka and the train ride out was fairly quick and easy, not least because Yuki was free and spent the day with us. It is one of the ancient capitals of Japan and so is blessed with a wealth of historic buildings. It was also somewhat less of a target in the war.
Our morning was therefore spent in what is known as the preserved district, with traditional houses and streets retained for posterity. The streets are narrower than ever and are shared by cars, pedestrians and bikes (motorized or not) with an amazing degree of mutual acceptance. The ingenuity with which people park their cars is also impressive. Mainly we just wandered along looking at the houses and shops, and of course, the people. We did, however go into one house over a shop retained as a museum. Although very simple the layout and detailing were fascinating as everything has to be fitted into a very limited space. Peter has begun to fantasise about a Japanese style extension or annexe to No 10 Derwent Road – well, he’s got to do something with his time when he gets home.
For lunch we found a small corner cafe offering ‘Okonomyaki’ a sort of hybrid pizza and omelette with interesting toppings. Margot had oyster and Peter chicken and both were hot and nourishing which was just what was needed on what was still a fairly chilly day.
From there we went up to the park where all the shrines and temples are – and the infamous deer that roam the streets living off offerings from the visitors. They of course can get a bit pushy but not dangerous and some ladies sell a special biscuit that is not too bad for them. Quite a change from Australia where feeding the wildlife is considered very anti-social.
The park is huge and everywhere are shrines and temples and even on a weekday there were hundreds of visitors keen to catch the first blossoming of the cherry trees. Waiting for a clear photo opportunity requires patience but like the traffic its all surprisingly good natured.
The main feature is the Todaiji Temple, built in 727 and the largest wooden structure in the world - even though it was destroyed in the 18th century and re-built at only 2/3 its original size. It houses a seated Bhudda who nearly reaches the roof and is accompanied by two fearsome looking guardians. At the foot of one of the pillars there is a hole that children and other small people can crawl through, though legend has it if you have told a lie you will get stuck. Certainly the little girl that we watched crawl through looked very relieved as she emerged so perhaps she had told a little porky at some time or other.
We climbed to the top of the park where it goes into the hill, which is itself a god in the shinto religion, and then circled around back to the town where we found a group on a pilgrimage visiting one of the shrines. We weren’t that impressed as they looked as if they were doing it on a coach rather than on foot.
We bought some sweets from one of these beautiful shops that wrap things so elegantly and took them home for tea where we found Aki and the kids and Mrs Sato had prepared a delicious meal of sea-food curry. After supper we did some e-mailing on the machine in the dining room, which is the centre of family life, while Mr Sato found CNN for us on the TV. With limited access to the internet we are feeling out of touch again and it was nice to know that North Korea had postponed the launch of its rocket for the time being.
Wednesday 1st April
April 1st passed relatively quietly although we introduced them to ‘pinch, punch, first of the month’ and the idea of April Fools. There was a rather unimaginative one about a computer virus but later the York Cycle Campaign sent on a BBC press release about Jeremy Clarkson converting to pedal power. Take a look if it is still up
http://www.bbc.co.uk.tscc.org.uk/pressoffice/stories/2009/1_april/30/topgear.shtml
With no outings planned Peter went for a run up the hills behind the houses which gave a great view out over the city and he managed to get back without getting lost. Being in a residential suburb there is nothing in English and no-one to ask the way even if we could explain where we were living. We do have a borrowed phone but it too only speaks Japanese so, apart from taking calls or dialling the two numbers Yuki fed in for us, its workings are a mystery.
Thursday 2nd April Kyoto
Today we had decided to go to Kyoto with Yuki and as Mr and Mrs Sato decided to join us so we all piled in Mr Sato’s car. Although both Osaka and Kyoto are major cities, the land in between is all fully built up and the existing roads are remarkably narrow. A freeway is being built but like most such roads has to be built on stilts above the existing network. It has walls to contain the noise so it’s a bit like driving in a tunnel.
Nevertheless we got there pretty quick and as we were driving through the city Mrs Sato suddenly remembered a small museum she had done some work with. It was above a shop and workshop making and selling wedding kimonos and related accessories and consisted mainly of a model of one wing of an imperial palace with models about 8” tall dressed in the most immaculate costumes acting out various scenes of courtly life. The workmanship was incredible and we will make an album of a selection of photos.
They also offered visitors the chance to try on a costume and soon Margot was fully regaled. Peter was perhaps less convincing in his outfit but drama ensued when he discovered her sitting in intimate proximity to another courtier – and this so close to their 30th anniversary. You probably had to be there, but it certainly caused some amusement at the time.
Changing back into more suitable attire we left Mr and Mrs Sato and headed to Konichi-in the grounds at the foot of Diamon-ji which we intended to climb for a picnic lunch. We took the time to visit the gardens of the Tea house of 8 windows, designed and built by a shogun with beautiful wood construction and some exquisite wall scrolls which unfortunately we were not able to photograph. The gardens were equally fascinating with small shrines and zen gardens.
Further up the hill the Philosophers Road was now overhung with cherry blossom as it follows a stream and a was magnet for photographers. We followed it for a while thereby missing the main route up the mountain so Yuki led us up a path that had clearly not seen human feet for some years. We did eventually locate the main path somewhere near the top and followed it to the lookout spot with a fantastic panorama across the city. Refreshed with green tea, fish cakes and rice balls we made our way down again to meet the parents.
Back at ground level we visited the Ginkaku-ji or Silver Temple which was being thoroughly renovated - interesting in itself to see the traditional carpenters skills still being carried on. We also wandered round the beautiful gardens which included amazing sand sculptures. By then it was closing time but we managed to find a little tea shop for tea and cakes (green tea and bean paste cakes, that is). There are so many little shops and stalls it is a wonder how any of them make a living but they seem to get by.
It was now getting late so we headed into the Gion district in the centre of the city, an area famed for its traditional nightlife and specifically geishas.
The districts is split by a stream and a narrow avenue with cherry blossoms now illuminated by street lights and thronged with visitors. It was made even livelier by a promotion of free saki by a local firm, handed out by lovely young ladies in kimonos. After getting our free drink we
wandered through the narrow dimly lit streets as Yuki explained what went on inside the close doors. We finally sat down to eat at an Italian restaurant though it somehow managed to retain a Japanese flavour. As always the Sato family refused to allow us to pay so we are encouraging them to come to England so we can at least attempt to return some of their hospitality. In fact so may people have been so kind and generous throughout our trip we have extended such invitations many, many times. It would be really nice to be able to show them all around Yorkshire but perhaps easier if they don't all arrive on the same day.
Friday 3rd April Kyoto with Kimiyo
The following day we headed back to Kyoto but this time on the train, with detailed instructions from Yuki. Miraculously we met Kimiyo as planned at the huge new station development but after a quick look around we headed of by bus (another new experience!) to see the Kinkaku-ji or Golden Temple. Although very crowded you could quite understand why as it is a very beautiful building set in lovely gardens . We then had a light lunch in a little coffee shop as we walked through to the Ritsumeiken University Peace Museum. This was very interesting ranging over a number of recent conflict zones and we ended up spending quite a time here.
We had intended to go on to visit the famous Royan-ji zen garden but by now it was close to closing time so we walked on to a shrine with a park that was still open, In fact it was just winding up for an evening of hanami picnics with dozens of stalls and booths offering food and drink. We had tea ata special Sakura tea shop which sold only tea made from cherry blossom. Quite salty but very tasty especially as it had real cherry blossom in it. (don’t try this at home, kids, it’s a special edible variety).
We then got the bus back into town as we were to meet a group of summer school alumni for dinner. Yuki has selected a rather chic restaurant set up in a traditional house miraculously surviving in the heart of the business district. On our way we browsed a bookshop having a summer sale and bought a copy of “ Letters from Iwo Jima" which we will read before watching the film – one of the selection that Matt sent us off with. Nevertheless we were early at the restaurant and they let us wander around the building and into the zen garden they had recreated at the back.
The meal was fun as some where old friends but most had been on separate summer schools, so we all introduced ourselves and explained what we did now and how the summer schools had steered our work subsequently. Peter was pleased to meet one guest who worked in the same field as him and had even been to Hackney on a fact-finding visit. The food was as good as the surroundings and there was a lot of sharing and tasting of each others dishes including still more delicacies that we hadn’t tried before.
Finally back on the train with a couple of changes so we went a bit mad and got a taxi up the hill to Yuki’s parents house for the last night.
In the morning, after a final farewell and a look at the cherry trees at the end of the street we piled in - with all our luggage- to Yuki’s 600cc car and headed for Hiro’s house in the Rokko mountains
No comments:
Post a Comment