On tour with Hugh

Slotting photos into this is driving Peter nuts so there are only a few - if you want to see more he will put them up on flickr - all those claiming to be 'following' this blog will be invited to view them later this afternoon. If you have not registered as a follower but want to see them anyway let us know. While youare at it let's have some news about you - you can use the comments option on this blog

Kaikoura

Our trip started with an important compromise as Hugh was used to getting up about 5 a.m. whereas we usually surfaced somewhat later. So, somewhere in between, we set off for Kaikoura, a couple of hours back up the coast. However, as previously planned - Hugh is a great planner and probably found our rather opportunistic approach a little disconcerting – we took the scenic route inland through the hills where Hugh had once taught in a one-teacher school. 

The pattern of the week was set when we ran in to the back of a herd of sheep being herded, you guessed it, by a former pupil.

Apart from the interesting anecdotes and insights, the other advantage of travelling through the region populated by Hugh’s "rellies” was that we often got favourable prices, known locally as "mate’s rates". The first was that night at Kaikoura at the White Morph, a very well appointed and pleasant modern motel overlooking the bay. To round off the day 

Hugh took us on a guided tour of the town, a trip up Piu Piu valley where his family had farmed and a trip out to the seal colony at Ohau Point, with this year's crop of youngsters playing enthusiastically in the nursery rockpool just below the viewpoint. A creek could be followed up from the beach to a waterfall where the seals were supposed to congregate in the fresh water pool but after torrential rain the creek was so swollen they couldn’t get there, which didn’t stop Peter clambering over the rocks to get a look, and a soaking.

The following morning Peter rivalled Hugh by getting up at seven and going for a run around the bay. It was such a lovely morning he just kept on going past the old wharf and on to Kaikoura Peninsula catching yet another seal colony relaxing in the undergrowth and on the car park, before the day's coaches arrived.

Later in the morning Hugh dropped us at the South Bay and we walked back up over the  headland in time for Peter to join the kayak trip heading out of the seal colony. We were in double kayaks and I was teamed up with a young American student. The bay is very sheltered by a reef where the seals hang out during the day and by the time we got there our paddling was reasonably coordinated and we were confident enough to venture out beyond the reef into a bit of swell. Most of the seals were lolling on the rocks but one was dispatched to cavort around the kayaks.  You could almost believe they were trained and employed by the Tourist Board. Encouraged by the seal’s agility we had some fun on the way back trying to ride the surf - not so easy in a double kayak. Margot in the meantime withdrew to the safety of the Museum and Fyffe House, a whaler’s cottage near the Peninsula.

 At the end of the afternoon, showered and changed, we visited another relative, who had just moved into the lovely new bungalow in the town, though she was still coming to terms with big city life after a lifetime on a remote farm (“station”) in the hills. Then we joined Hugh and his relatives to watch the rugby (it seems all Kiwis are sports mad) followed by a lovely meal in the house they occupy to the rear of the motel.

 

The Maori Tour

 

The next day they were due in Nelson but still had time in Kaikoura to take the Maori tour. This was devised and run in by a very nice Maori gentleman called Maurice Solomon - Hugh had known his father -  and by Tanya, who specialised in the medicinal properties of the various trees and plants we saw. The project was set up using funding available from the reparations settlement recently agreed between the government and the local tribe.  I am not sure the welcome would have been as warm before this settlement, as it turned out that Hugh’s antecedent, a James Mackay, had been instrumental in purchasing from the Maori inhabitants what would appear to be half the South Island for £300.

 The tour involved a visit to the Peninsula walkway explaining the significance of the Maori sculptures which we seen the previous day. Then up to the headland to visit the old ‘pa’, the original fortified settlement - fortified I hasten to add not to defend against the settlers but against another Maori tribe from the North Island. It was in part the promise of protection from rival tribes that encouraged the Maoris to agree to the terms of the Treaty of Waitingi and it seems to be the failure by the settlers to honour the Treaty rather than the Treaty itself that was the root of the problem.

 

We also saw the Marae, traditionally a meeting house but now extended to provide a variety of services to local Maori community. After generations of intermarriage it is said that there are no “pureblood" Maoris left and, whether or not this is true, the definition of who is a Maori is very broad and embracing.  Anyone who can trace their ancestry back to include a Maori can elect to be recognized as a Maori. It's not so much a question of race as of personal and cultural identity which is quite refreshing and encouraging for New Zealand's future.

 

It occurs to me at moments like this that someone from New Zealand might actually read this and tell me that I'm talking a load of nonsense.  So don't take my word for it, read something from our booklist and make up your own mind - Ed

We then went to the Solomon’s house where we were given drinks and snacks and met his wife and delightful grand-children before heading up to Puhi Puhi valley, this time to see it from a different perspective.  We were taken to a rare section of native woodland where we were shown the different plants and the medicinal purposes to which they had traditionally been put –  we even had a cup of tea made from the leaves we saw growing and Peter took away a few extra leaves to help with a mouth ulcer.

 

We have been a bit wary of guided tours and particularly of presentations of Maori culture as some of these seem a bit naff. With only 9 on the tour and no costumes this was really interesting and enjoyable and we were glad we have made an exception.

 

In which we picnic in a graveyard and visit a musical loo

 

Heading north again we pulled off Highway 1 into a graveyard where some of Hugh’s ancestors were buried. It was a sunny day and he reassured us that picnicking in such a place was quite acceptable and in fact we soon became used to sharing our midday meals with those who had gone before.

 

Our next stop, for coffee, was at Picton, where we had got off the ferry a couple of days earlier. The highlight of the stop must have been a visit to the automatic toilets which welcome you with piped music and a warning that you only have 10 minutes. The voice did not specify what happened if you overstayed your welcome.

 

We completed our journey to Nelson along the Queen Charlotte Scenic Drive.  Hugh did  the driving so Margot and Peter could enjoy the fabulous views down into Marlborough Sound. This tended to be the pattern with the three of us taking turns drivingnbut Hugh doing those bits he particularly wanted us to be able to see.

 

Nelson

 

At Nelson we were booked into the Wakatu Hotel  which Hugh had patronised some 40 years previously, possibly staring at the same wallpaper. Not as chic or luxurious as the White Morph but it served its purpose and was very good value.

 Come the morning, we retraced our steps a few kilometres to see some of the sights of Hugh’s heritage. This is one of the earliest settlements and Hughes family had been early settlers and very active in its early development before heading south. As well as picnicking in the local cemetery we visited what must be one of the finest homes in South Island, where two-storey houses are relatively rare. The current owners were busy with other visitors in the garden and, somewhat amazingly - to us but not to Hugh- sent us off to nose around the inside of the house by ourselves, just asking us not to go upstairs as someone was sleeping there.  It really was a lovely place both inside and out.

 

As we were invited to supper with some more recent relatives we headed back to Nelson stopping only to tour the necropolis and stalk some wading birds we noticed in the lagoon.

 

Supper was a barbecue in another lovely house on the hill overlooking the bay. As with all of Hughs rellies they were good company and generous hosts and as so often we were happy to extend an offer of hospitality should they come to Yorkshire. We shall have to stay at home for the ne

xt decade or so if all our offers of hospitality get taken up

 

Abel Tasman

 

By now we were heading north west and this took us to the Able Tasman National Park. This is only accessible at two points separated by a three day hike, or "tramp", but we were only able to walk in for a couple of hours, have a swim, and back out again. It was a beautiful day and as so often we could have wished to stay much longer but our goal that day was Collingwood, just short of Farewell Spit, the most northerly point of the island. The drive involved dramatic twisting roads through the mountains, one along the coast from Marahau, and the other over Hakaka Hill to Golden Bay climbing 791 metres with 300 bends  - Margot would have been counting but she had her eyes closed.

 

We're not sure whether this was part of his plan but each night we seem to be staying in a different form of accommodation.  One of the best things about holidaying in New Zealand is the availability of very reasonable and perfectly adequate accommodation and tonight's was a great example of a hybrid bed-and-breakfast  cum motel, with our own kitchen and picnic area while Hugh stayed in the main house in an en-suite room.

 

Farewell Spit

 The Spit – named by Captain Cook as he headed home to Whitby - is a wildlife reserve and the only way to visit is on a guided trip on specially built four-wheel drive coaches piloted enthusiastically by an enthusiastic naturalist. The Spit is 25 kilometres long and home to seals and gannets as well as enormous sand dunes. Lunch is provided at the old Lighthouse-keeper’s house - the lighthouse itself is now automated. 

The return trip takes you first to the bottom them to the top of enormous cliffs. Again, a good choice of outing, not cheap, but good value.

 

Before leaving the following morning Margot and Peter had time to climb the hill overlooking the town where we discovered another historic graveyard but despite a thorough search, this time there appeared to be no relatives of Hugh’s buried there. An information board nearby showed the layout of the proposed much larger town which for a while was earmarked as the capital of New Zealand. Hard now to believe in such a tiny sleepy little place.

 

The RSA

Then back over the mountains to Motueka where we had booked into a motel that turned out to be on the outskirts of the town with no hotel (pub) in view so Hugh introduced us to the RSA (Returned Servicemen's Association)  next door for a couple of beers. They also do food but we have plenty of our own in the boot so we prepared a meal in our motel unit’s kitchen. It was a two bedroom unit which meant in the morning Hugh was trapped in his room until Margot and Peter Rose from their slumbers.

 

To the West Coast

 

Next day we headed over the mountains to Westport on the west coast. The mountains are a bit like the Pennines in that they divide the South Island in two with just a couple of passes connecting them. A bit like the M62 but if the M62 was more scenic and there was a lot less traffic. And if, on the other side, instead of Manchester there was just Wales.

 Arriving about lunchtime we  stopped near the Tuaranga Bay seal colony and walked along the headland to Cape Foulwind – named by our own Captain Cook who was clearly having a bad day.

 A bonus was meeting a weka , not unlike a kiwi but a lot easier to find. In fact they tend to find you as they are very inquisitive and fearless.

  From there we went on south to the Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. Peter was a bit sceptical – 50 kilometers to see some more rocks? In fact, they were really impressive though the sea was too calm to create the blowholes that are what makes them famous. There are huge arches and coves and the rock formation is finely layered but no-one knows why or how it came to be this way. All of it visible from a cleverly constructed walkway.

 

Back in Westport we  took a couple of cabins on a holiday park. They had all the amenities but we had had a long day so, once the laundry was on, we headed in to town for a pizza.

 

Down on the Farm

 

The next day was a long drive through heavy rain back across the mountains (so, just like the M62). Too wet for a picnic so we pulled in to Hanmer Springs, a ski resort trying to get by out of season and had a nice hot meal.

 

Then on to Richard and Pam’s farm on the plain below the hills. Before a lovely meal and  a very comfy bed Richard took us on a tour of his new irrigation system that takes water from the river and distributes it by way of those oversized garden sprinklers you see on farms but never quite knew how they worked. Well, now we can tell you and very interesting it was too. Clearly a huge investment but you could see the difference between the green irrigated fields and the surrounding acres of parched grass.

 

Back to Christchurch

 Back safely to Hugh’s house and on-line to see if anyone wanted a campervan relocated southwards. It turns out there was a Britz 2-berth needed to be in Queenstown  on Wednesday and they were happy to sell us an extra day so we could take in Margot’s friends on the way. Now we were all set up for the next  phase of our trip and so we rounded off Hugh’s trip around the north of the South Island with a tour of Christchurch, starting with the surfers at New Brighton and then over the headland to Lyttleton, the city’s historic port. The day - Peter’s birthday as it happened - ended with a meal out downtown with some of Hugh’s family and friends at Ducks Delux in an entertainment complex set up in the old university buildings.

 

The next morning Hugh droved us over to the airport at 8am to collect the van, and we were off on our next adventure..